August 2021 Sunset with Malcolm

Warmed up on A Walk in the Park (5.8). This was the farthest down on the south end I had ever been, beyond even Liberty Bell.

We did Thin Pockets (5.8+) again. The last time we did this it started raining on Malcolm halfway up! I believe Malcolm got the route clean this time. Quite runout at the start. Malcolm said he wished the route was longer.

Ghost Dancers (5.8) was next door. The start was a hard boulder problem, felt more like 5.10. I have read conflicting beta about where this route starts and how hard the various starts are, so perhaps I was "off route" just for the start. Malcolm got the whole route clean except the first few moves. 

Both these two previous routes had interesting transitions from crimpy face climbing to cracks. 

We did Bill's Route (5.8) again. Moving into the chimney/slot on this route is just so much fun. This climb has it all - cracks, chimney, face climbing, and slab. 

All four of these routes felt harder than I expected. 5.8 at Sunset is legitimately challenging. 

August 2021 Eldo and RMNP with Derek and Nick

August 6, 2021

Showed up in the Eldo parking lot around 6 AM. Derek and I climbed Touch 'N' Go (5.9-) as an approach to The Naked Edge (5.11b). I don't remember much about this climb. We then meandered up the Meadow to the start of The Naked Edge.

I led all of the pitches of The Edge, at least those that we were able to complete. The first pitch was a hard (for me) finger crack, but I managed to do it clean. The second and third pitches were not easy, but they weren't super challenging, either (although they were a bit run out in places). There was a bit of a thoughtful move a third of the way up the second pitch. Traversing right and doing the mantle move on the third pitch also felt a bit challenging. I belayed from two slings/static loops wrapped around a rock at the top - I was unsure if it would make more sense to continue over the top of this rock and build a gear belay or stick with what appeared to be a rap station. The fourth pitch I was unable to complete. I climbed it cleanly until I needed to get into the chimney - then I lost my will to continue. After hanging (on the piton and cam below and to the right of the chimney) and making several attempts, we finally gave up. Moving up through this chimney seemed very technical, and you move quite high above the two pieces below. I need to have these moves dialed in to feel comfortable getting that high above my gear. Still, I'm determined to return and give this climb another attempt.

The Spearhead with Syke's Sickle in the center

On Saturday we got up at 3 AM to climb Syke's Sickle (5.9+) in Rocky Mountain National Park. Because of the new permitting system for park visitors, we needed to be inside the park before 5 AM, and we barely made it because of road construction. The approach was, as usual, and endurance fest for me, and I struggled to keep up with the pace that Derek and Nick were setting. Still, I made it to the base, where we started the day of cold, cold temperatures. It was probably above 90 degrees back in Denver, and yet I don't think the temperature ever cracked above 42 degrees (and windy) while we were on the climb. I was shivering at the belays. Derek led the easy first pitch. The second pitch was super run-out slab, and I can't say I was too happy about that. I believe it was on pitch 4 as described on Mountain Project that, while Derek was leading, he fell. The rope began to slip through my fingers, and it took me a second or two to realize what had happened. By the time I arrested his fall, he was 20-40 feet below the piece he had just placed. I'm still not entirely sure what happened here, but I think it was a combination of not stopping the rope in time and having a tremendous amount of rope out (it was a very long pitch or a link-up he was doing) which led to a lot of rope stretch.  Luckily, he continued up the climb with nothing worse than a very bruised ankle, but he did complain about it feeling numb, and he did say he didn't want to lead any more pitches. OK - I felt bad enough that he had fallen so far, and I was more than happy to lead the rest of the pitches for us.

Pitch 5 was fun once I figured out I needed to move really high in the crack/chimney before traversing out to the right. I think I ended up placing a piece high to protect this traverse before moving back down a bit lower to make the crux moves. On pitch 6, the crux pitch, I fell while trying to make the final moves out around the roof. It protects really well with a #4, however, and I almost felt like it was a "sport" pitch from the perspective of protection, so never was really nervous. Regaining my composure, I found a huge hold/edge at the top of the roof - if only I had been able to hold on a bit longer and reach a bit higher, I would have done this cleanly. From here I climbed a ways up the crack/ramp and set up a belay.

Pitch 7 may in some ways have been the spiciest pitch of all. Derek did manage to spot the lone bolt for me (yay!), and I slotted a piece in the flake directly above the belay. But overall there wasn't a lot of protection on this pitch, and a fall would be exciting and/or dangerous both for the leader as well as for the follower. Very delicate slab moves led to easier climbing to the top.

The descent was relatively casual, although it still felt long. By now I was feeling the altitude to a very large degree, I was very tired, and all my muscles were starting to cramp up. I was super happy when we trudged back into the parking lot and I could finally relax. That night, I experienced leg cramps unlike any I've ever experienced before (both legs cramping in various places at the same time), and even trying to walk them off didn't help at times. I think I need more water and more electrolytes next time. I also need more warm clothes - I was cold even with a long-sleeve synthetic shirt, a short-sleeve synthetic shirt, a puffy, and a gortex shell. Perhaps I even need a pullover next time.

Also of note was the smoke from fires out west. There was so much smoke that we basically couldn't see the sun for most of the day even though it was directly over our heads. This kept us cold, and it also made breathing at altitude that much more difficult. I do hope the air clears up there soon.

Nick expresses his excitement

Tired but satisfied at the top of Syke's Sickle

July 2021 Sunset Rock with Derek

July 3, 2021

Stan's Crack (5.9+). I have been doing the "Direct Finish #1", route 134 in the Chattrad guide. Derek claims that the "Direct Finish #2" slightly to the left is also fun.

Bubble Bath (5.9). Thin pro at the bottom, but was able to place a C3 in a small pocket.

Slip Stream (5.7+). Derek's lead.

Rusty's Crack (5.10a/b). My first clean ascent! I roughly followed the beta that I had recorded previously here. Derek's hand is apparently large enough that he can fist jam at the crux instead of the crazy chicken wing stuff I find myself doing.

Screamwall (5.10). Felt easier than the first time I climbed it.

June 2021 Sunset Rock with Malcolm

Bill's Route (5.8). Malcolm thought it was a lot of fun, maybe his favorite climb ever. It was interesting to move from under the roof into the corner above.

Broemel's Route (5.8+). Felt hard. Lots of crack climbing.

Both of the above climbs felt harder than I expected.

Thin Pockets (5.8+). Short but fun. Sparse protection at the bottom with plenty higher up.

Unfortunately it started to rain when Malcolm was only a third of the way up Thin Pockets, so we had to leave after this one.

June 2021 Yosemite with Malcolm

 We went to Yosemite and stayed at the Moonstone June 7-11, 2021. Malcolm and I climbed June 8-10 with Nate. Weather was perfect, with highs in the mid 60's.

June 8 Malcolm and I followed Nate up The Nutcracker Suite (5.8). I felt that the infamous mantle move near the top was fun but not overly difficult. We were stuck behind two slower parties for a good portion of the day, although Nate passed one of these parties between the last two pitches. Malcolm did a great job keeping up and only hung on the rope a few times. In the afternoon, Malcolm took a nap while I tried to climb some harder stuff. I tried to lead Haley's Comet (5.10a) but fell three times at the crux between the first two bolts. This is definitely a climb where the falls are potentially dangerous. Nate put it up for me, showed me the beta, and I did it on toprope. Very thin slab moves! Then I toproped Jump for Joy (5.9 R) trying to figure out good gear placements. Despite comments on Mountain Project to the contrary, the solitary bolt near the bottom of the climb was in place, and I repeated the climb, this time on lead.

Malcolm and Nate at the top of The Nutcracker Suite. Half Dome peeks around the mountain in the distance.

June 9 Malcolm and I followed Nate up Munginella (5.6) as an approach to Selaginella (5.8). Munginella was a nice warmup for what came next. Not a single boring pitch on Selaginella! A wide variety of climbing including cracks, chimneys, and the wild, exciting, very exposed traverse left near the top of the second-to-last pitch. That traverse was definitely the highlight for Malcolm.

Malcolm heads up the first pitch of Selaginella.

June 10 Nate put up topropes for us and Calliope. I toproped Coup d'Etat (5.12a) and was pleased to get the onsite on this route! The crux was a semi-dynamic lunge to a great jug near the top off of small/slabby footholds. Then Malcolm and I drove into the park and climbed Nurdle (5.8). It was a fun, relaxing lead, but by this point Malcolm was too tired and sore to really climb much more, and we stopped for the day.

May 22 Sunset Rock with John and Rachel

 John and Rachel came with me to Sunset with Beck in tow on May 22, 2021.

Stan's Crack (5.8+) - our warmup. I chose the direct finish which seemed more straightforward than moving out right near the top.

Rusty's Crack (5.10a/b) - I finally did the crux move clean (after a single take). Bring at least two and maybe three #4 cams. You don't need to bring doubles of anything else especially if you back-clean anything you place in the chimney. In the chimney, you can place a high #2 - be sure you have it on the correct side of your harness. Each time you've climbed the chimney, you've done so facing to the right, but several folks climb it facing to the left and claim this is easier. Protect the crux roof move with a #4 as high as you can reach from under the roof, and also place a smaller cam (0.5?) in the horizontal finger crack below as a backup. To pull the crux move:

    1. Right hand on the low corner arete horn

    2. Left hand on the crimp up in front of your face or a bit higher

    3. Left foot up on something before you try to make the move, probably want to use the rail that is 6-12 inches below on the underside of the roof to push off with your left foot.

    4. Pull hard and lift your right foot up onto the slopey foothold on the roof edge/arete.

    5. Look for a face hold for the right hand? (maybe this doesn't exist, can't remember)

    6. Right hand thumb down in the crack, there is a flake you want to gaston high on the inside right face of the crack.

    7. Find small but good face hold right in front of you for the next gear stance.

Then place a second #4 cam and walk it as you make your way up the fist crack.

Broken Arrow (5.10a) - I forgot how hard the lower section is. Also, I went left at the top instead of right as I have done before. I was trying to follow the topo as indicated in Chattrad, but I don't believe that topo is correct. I ended up in a lichen-covered section that ended at a tree with old tat rap anchors and no bolts. I think this climb is supposed to end up and to the right under the roof. I set up a gear anchor to back up the tree, had Rachel toprope on that, then climbed it again and rapped off the sketchy tree. Ugh.

May 20 Sunset Rock with Kellett

Climbed at Sunset with Kellett on May 20, 2021.

Lefthand Crack (5.9+) - I thought I was getting on Righthand Crack, but it turns out I was getting on the harder "Lefthand" Crack. It was fun, a solid hand crack.

Spud Boys (5.10, p. 108 in Chattrad) - Had a fun start with a mini-roof, but the top was boring and covered in lichen and finished in the trees without anchors. This climb isn't even on Mountain Project.

Rusty's Crack (5.10a/b) - I fell on top of Kellett just above the hard move at the roof. After that I aided through the section by pulling on two #4 cams. See post from May 22, 2021 for full beta.

S'more (5.8+) - Fun, and a good deal harder than I remembered.

Flagstone (5.11a) - Done on toprope. I fell several times getting around the roof, but managed to get through it eventually with an "aggressive" belay. This would be an exciting lead, to say the least.