Tuesday, September 22, 2020

September Tetons with Nick and Derek

Derek somewhere up Irene's Arete


Sept 11, climbed Irene's Arete (5.8) with Derek. Slightly lost on the approach, but was good preparation for Exum Ridge approach which we did the following day. The Irene's approach took us 6.5 mi, the descent 5.8 mi.

Kenton getting his caffeine fix somewhere on Exum Ridge

Sept 12, climbed Full Exum [Lower Exum Ridge (5.7) and Exum Ridge (5.5)] with Derek and Nick. We did a fast approach and didn't get lost. 7.0 mi on the approach, 7.9 mi on the descent. It was a 17-hour day from 5:20 AM to 10:20 PM. I was just happy we finished. There as some route-finding difficulty on Lower Exum and some communication trouble while we were simul-climbing upper Exum. It was definitely icy in places on the descent, and I was happy to have brought my microspikes along.

Tuesday, September 8, 2020

September 2020 Sunset Rock with Zach

Kenton on Broken Arrow

Ghost Dancers (5.8) - Zach's lead

Thin Pockets (5.8+ PG13) - Zach's lead

Broken Arrow (5.10a) - my lead, I loved working the crack at the start.

A Sense of Adventure (5.9+) - toprope. Gave me a good crux about 2/3 of the way up where I had to high step with my right foot and move to thin crimp with my right hand.

Sunset Boulevard (5.10b/c) - Zach's lead. This climb had decent protection, but I would have been afraid of falling above the first roof and at the second crux when traversing right.

Jams and Shams (5.10) - my lead. Very nice crack with perfect jams at the start, then much easier climbing above.


Near the top of Jams and Shams