Broken Arrow (5.10a) - Noel's lead, tricky move is getting around the mini roof halfway up, requires careful balance. We went to the right up top, but it looks as if going to the left might be better.
Rusty's Crack (5.10a/b) - My lead. Chimney at the start is athletic. Crux is definitely the move out of the chimney, up onto the face and into the crack. I ended up taking here a few times and finally aiding my way out of it. A toprope attempt or two before trying on lead again could be helpful. Back clean the chimney. Don't take too much gear (don't need doubles really, because climbing above the fist crack is very easy). Two or maybe even three #4 cams for the wide fist crack would be very helpful. The #5 is too large to be useful. Noel did the move by first grabbing face holds out left, then grabbing the right side of the crack and working his way into a left-facing lieback. I'm not sure this is the easiest way.
Another Fallen Angel (5.10) - We both backed off this well below the roof after placing only three pieces of gear. We felt it was too risky to go higher with so little protection between the face and the roof. Even the start felt pretty hard.
Sinsophrenia (5.10b) - Noel's lead. Sharp conglomerate on this one. Noel had to hang a few times at the crux halfway and two-thirds of the way up. This is a pretty straightforward crack climb the whole way. I had to hang twice on the rope even on toprope.
