July Sunset Rock with Derek

Date: July 10, 2022

Partner: Derek

Location: Sunset Rock

Weather: Hot, humid in the morning, rain around lunchtime

We got a few routes in at least before it started to rain on us in earnest

S'More (5.8+) to Flagstone (5.11a). Hung on the draws near the top. Then avoided hard move to last bolt near the top by moving to easier ground near the arete on the left.

Either Jug Mania (5.7) or Afternoon Delight (5.7+). Derek's lead. Kinda a choose your own adventure from right to left.

Pancake Flake (5.9-). My lead. Chimney down low was unprotected but was a chimney so hard to fall from. Higher up the crack was well protected fists then hands. Struggled to find anchors at the top. Initially tried straight up, then right, then finally went far left and found them. 

July Little River Canyon with Derek

Date: July 9, 2022

Partner: Derek

Location: Little River Canyon, Lizard Wall

Weather: Hot, rain

Lizard Wall is overhanging with a big roof, so despite the rain, it stays completely dry. 100% humidity means that the rock is kinda seeping in these conditions, but there is no direct rainfall hitting the wall.

Cedar Poke (5.10c/d) - I fell between the first and second clips. The move here felt hard for 5.10c. It also felt hard at the top.

We made a stick clip out of an old dead stick. For this, we held the gate open with a rock, and used a loose loop of tape to attach the spin of the carabiner to the stick.

Lemonade (5.11a) - Start felt pretty hard but otherwise grade felt OK. Much easier at the top.

Bon Voyage (5.11c) - Fell between first and second clip. Felt sustained, clipping from crimps.

Stella Blue (5.11b) - Very hard climbing. Are holds missing? Was a blank face between clips 2 and 3, I was forced to stick clip the second clip from below and jug on the rope. There was also a bat in the jug above the second clip, I was scared about getting bitten. Again I was forced to stick clip the third clip and jug on the rope to get past the bat. Finally beyond the third clip the climbing got easier. Not recommended.

Sodomy (5.11c) - Tons of fun. Bouldery first few moves. Easier in the middle. One move side pull wonder at the top.

Robyn's Route (5.12b) - Hard Boulder problem near the start. Hard move near fixed draw. Hung many times but finally did all the moves.