November Denny Cove with Matt

At the base of Empire of Dirt

November 18, 2023

Denny Cove Buffet Wall

Empire of Dirt (5.12a) - I had four takes or so on this climb. Top was steep but didn't feel hard. Middle section felt harder.

Flash Fried (5.12c) - The guidebook said 5.12b, recent comments on Mountain Project say 5.12c/d after some holds broke off. It felt hard. I got to the top, but only by pulling on draws in two crux sections.

Kobayashi (5.11d) - Pumpy, crimpy, powerful climbing. I made it to the top cleanly, but it was a struggle.

September Devil's Tower with Derek

 

I flew to Rapid City, SD on September 7, 2023 and met Derek at the airport. After spending the night in Rapid City, we drove to Devil's Tower the following morning and got on Durrance around lunchtime.

Durrance (5.7+) truly was classic. Derek led the approach pitch. I climbed pitches one and two together as a single pitch. Derek led pitches three, four, and five. All of the pitches on this climb were extremely short. I don't really understand why there are so many intermediate anchors. From the end of the fifth pitch I led the Bailey variation to get us to the top. The crux for me on Durrance was near the top of pitch two, making a tricky move from the left wall to the right. This definitely felt harder than 5.7.

We wandered around a bit enjoying the top and laughing at the sign before rapping down.

We had some daylight left, so we wandered farther east to Soler (5.9). This felt like one of the longest and most sustained routes I've done. I led it in a single pitch, and it was just endless hand and finger jams for 250 feet. Just from an endurance perspective I almost fell two thirds of the way up. 

The next day we set out with El Matador (5.10d) as our objective. Clouds were already starting to threaten us as Derek got onto the first pitch, and has he neared a tricky mantle move near the top the skies completely opened up, drenching the rock. We quickly decided to abandon this project as he lost all traction on the wet lichen, and I lowered him back down.

Dejected, we debated heading to the airport a day early, but decided to at least try climbing a pitch on the eastern (sunnier) side that we hoped would be drier. We decided on Walt Bailey Memorial (5.9). I hung two thirds of the way up when the finger crack started to thin out. It was all there, but I needed to steel my nerves. So after this initial take, I sent the route to the top. I ended up placing eight nuts on this route, probably more than I have ever placed on a route before! It is a long and sustained finger crack to hand crack the entire way. My ankles were on fire. We wandered across the meadow and rapped down the Durrance rap line. 

Thinking we would cross our fingers and hope for continued fine weather on the east side, we made our way to New Wave (5.10a). Derek led this, also as a single pitch. It is a fun and exciting 10a with many 5.8 moves, one or two 5.9 moves, and one VERY exciting traverse crux at a bolt. My beta was to reach around right of the arete and kind of lie back on it, but the feet below are pure friction, and they're not to your right. So it feels totally insecure.

From the top of New Wave we moved over slightly left and I led Assembly Line (5.9). This was yet another long, continuous pitch of 5.8/5.9 hand crack for 110 feet followed by an easier wider section. My ankles were screaming on this route as I foot jammed, placing gear over and over. It just seemed to go on forever. With both of us finally at the top, we rapped using the Beal Escaper to the top of New Wave, then did a single rap without the Escaper to the mid point of New Wave (the rope didn't really reach, so I had to reach down to clip the bolts and down climb a few feet). Then we used the Escaper one last time to get down. 

We finished by walking all the way around the tower base. As we got back to our car, it started to rain again. So we had timed things perfectly. What a spectacular day! 

Assembly Line on Devil's Tower 

August Sunset Rock with Daniel

August 27, 2023

Sunset Rock with Daniel

Stan's Crack (5.8+) - warmup

Cornerstone (5.11-) - Daniel's lead. He needed to retrieve a stuck nut placed the previous week. I fell halfway up the arete, then found a key finger lock and did the climb without incident from there.

Jefferson Airplane (5.10a) - my lead. I barndoored off right after placing my second piece, because I wasn't paying close attention. Lowered to the ground, then sent it clean to the top. While up there I rigged the anchor over Mineral Fright instead of Jefferson Airplane.

Mineral Fright (5.11a) - Daniel and I both top-roped this climb. Fun climbing on tiny crimps. It would be a dangerous lead.

Another Fallen Angel (5.10) - Daniel led this and made it look easy. I have always hestiated to climb this when I've been at Sunset in the past. But, Daniel made it look so easy this time that we pulled the rope and I set off trying to lead it myself. He had placed two pieces before getting to the perfect hand crack beneath the roof. While there, he had placed two additional cams and extended them both. Then he had gone over the roof and pushed to the top. When I tried to do this I was initially shut down at the roof. First I just plain hung on the rope. The next time I managed to get my hand on the jug over the lip, but I traversed right (the wrong way), couldn't get myself over the lip and ended up taking a fall. Finally the next time I made it. The sequence was:

1. Hands in the jam under the roof

2. High right heel hook on the same rail as the hands

3. Reach way way out and up and right for a jug at the edge of the lip/roof

4. Put both feet in the hand crack

5. Pull hard up and go for the rail way above your head and to the left

6. Move farther left with matched hands on the rail

7. High right foot. Trust it!

8. Right hand to the crimp in the small crack above the roof on the right

9. Pull the roof and go

July Eldo with Brady and Derek

 Flew to Denver on July 28 and spent two nights with Derek and Sarah. I was suffering from a cold the whole weekend which cast a shadow over things. My energy level was low.

On Saturday July 29 I climbed with Brady. We climbed in Eldo in the morning and at Easter Rock in Boulder Canyon that afternoon.

Brady led Werks Up (5.9) to the base of Outer Space (5.10b/c). I led both pitches of Outer Space. I found the climb very fun, not really scary, and pretty well protected. On the first pitch, after traversing to the right, go under the bulge and then up instead of up and over the bulge. On the second pitch, place a #2 (extend with double-length sling) up and right off of the belay in the mini roof, then traverse left to the piton. Clip the piton, back it up with another cam, and move left around the arete.

On the way down we climbed Sunset Boulevard (5.11b). I was unable to get through the crux without pulling on gear. Brady was able to do the move cleanly.

At Easter Rock we climbed:

a hard 5.11 (don't know the name)

Empire of the Fenceless (5.12a) - I had to hang on the draws at the crux. Here, I need to get my right foot up in a smear, then get my left foot as high as possible on an edge before reaching way up for the next decent hold high over my head.

On Sunday July 30 I climbed with Derek in Eldo at Peanuts Walls:

Peanuts (5.9+) - Derek led this and struggled with some terrific rope drag. There is a definite crux in the middle! We rapped after the first pitches rather than trying the hard 5.11 mixed routes above.

Trouble and Strife (5.10b/c) - I had to aid through the crux in the bottom section; it felt hard to me for the grade. Derek told me he after doing it on toprope that he thinks he knows the beta now.

West Crack (aka Star Wars) (5.8) - Derek led this. I thought it was one of the most spectacular 5.8's I've ever done. Derek hated it, because he said that it was just a bit too small for him to ever sink his hands into very well. So he found it very challenging and pumpy.

Heavy Weather - We did this in two pitches. I led the first (5.9), Derek the second (5.8). My section had two corner finger cracks. These were very thought-provoking but entirely doable. I was very happy to have smaller wires on my rack. Derek's section was a wider hand/first crack, and he liked this size much better than Star Wars.

May Front Range Colorado with Derek (Turkey Rocks, Eldo)

 

Derek coils the rope at the top of Gobbler's Grunt

May 5, 2023 I flew to Colorado for two days of climbing with Derek. On Saturday we made the drive out to Turkey Rocks. The Tesla Model Y wasn't an ideal car for the rutted dirt road at the end of this trip, but we had been unable to start Derek's Honda Pilot. So, we parked the car two and a half miles from the base of the climbs and hiked in the last bit.

Gobbler's Grunt (5.9) - Derek did the recommend hand-crack variation for pitch 1. There was a bit of a crux underneath the roof. Sustained. I led pitch 2 which felt trickier than expected. I stayed to the right near the top where there was more gear, although the climbing may have been easier over to the left (without any gear at all). This forced me to traverse left 15 feet at the top of the pitch to reach the belay ledge. Derek took us to the top.

Turkey Shoot (5.9) - First pitch was too wide for hands and fists. This technique is definitely not something I have lot of practice with. Crux was a traverse around to the right of a bulge. I reached some rappel slings and thought I was at the top only to have Derek and someone else down at the bottom shout up and tell me to keep going. Belayed under the roof. Derek led the next pitch which was a beautiful hand crack to a large ledge. From here there were two choices - either continue up more off-width on the left, or move the belay to the right and go up a squeeze chimney. I chose the squeeze chimney, and I have to admit this felt like the hardest part of the entire day. When Derek followed me up it to the top, he told me that there was much easier climbing out to the right. However, none of that climbing had any protection. Instead I stayed deep towards the back of the chimney where I found at least some protection. It was still rather run out until I could place a #5 high up, and after that it felt run out again until I had gained the ledge. The chimney itself was very challenging. I found that I really couldn't turn around, but halfway up I really wanted to face to the left instead of the right. Instead, I got myself literally stuck like a cam with a no-hands rest multiple times while trying to turn around. This pitch felt scary.

Overall we felt that Turkey Rocks was a different style of climbing than we were used to. I certainly felt as if I had received a full-body workout by the end of the day, and my fingers didn't hurt at all. There is just so much off-width climbing there, as well as plenty of hand cracks as well. The (almost) three-mile walk back to the car didn't help to keep me feeling fresh. I do not feel prepared to try anything harder than 5.9+ at this area.

Handcracker Direct (5.10a) - On Sunday we climbed in Eldo, starting out on Handcracker Direct. Derek led the first pitch, with the intention of also leading the third, while I was to lead the second and then link the fourth and fifth. The crack at the top of pitch 1 certainly didn't feel trivial. At the top of pitch one, I moved left about 15 feet and worked my way up through the roof and into the corner crack. This felt strenuous and slightly tenuous as well. I ended up doing a few lie-back moves to get through this section. The climbing eased up after that until the top of the pitch which ended in what I would consider a choss-pile. Not realizing this was where I was supposed to stop, and not seeing any good (not chossy) places to build an anchor, I continued up the wide crack system and flake in front of me. This was easier climbing although was also a bit runout without having brought the larger gear. At the top of the flake was a large belay ledge, and I soon began to suspect that I had linked pitches two and three, a fact that Derek confirmed when he joined me a few minutes later. I felt bad that I had unintentionally stolen his lead, and I offered him the lead of pitch four, but he told me that I should lead it if I felt prepared. I have to admit that this next pitch felt in some ways easier than the crux sections of pitches one and two. It is a handcrack almost all the way up, and although it is rather steep in places the hand jams just felt so solid that I felt casual. If I had to name a crux it would be traversing left just below the roof, but there was a reasonably large rail here where I was able to match hands and pull up to the juggy holds above. I linked this pitch to the much easier one above to the top.

Blind Faith (5.10a) - Another beautiful hand crack! I led the first pitch which felt cruiser until near the top. Here I had to work a bit harder with the solid hand jams (but poor feet) until I could reach way up to a constriction at the top of the crack on the left and an edge on the flat face above and to the right. Some delicate footwork took me over the lip to a comfy belay ledge. Derek led the second pitch, another crack that required some thought near the bottom but eased into much easier climbing from the halfway point to the top. Tons of fun overall.

It was a very successful trip. Also, this trip has inspired me to try to take on some real projects in Eldo. Naked Edge is probably up first. 

April Denny Cove

Met John Cioci, one of Dave Hume's and Jack's friends, for the first time when I went to Denny Cove on April 30, 2023. I had to leave by 1:30 PM EDT to get back in time for dinner, so it was a quick session. Still, managed to get five pitches in.

Tossed Salad (5.11b) - I fell two thirds of the way up completely unexpectedly when my fingers slid off a key hold. This climb is pretty chill except for a relatively well defined cruxy sequence.

Gas Powered Flight (5.10d) - This climb was more fun than the first one I did. It is overhung at the start but with juggy holds. There are some crimpier moves near the top. Overall this climb had a lot to keep my interest the whole way.

Three Star Salad Bar (5.10a) - Entirely chill.

Magic Meat (5.12a/b) - I tried climbing this twice. The lower section is overhung but juggy. The upper section has two cruxes nearly back-to-back with small crimps. On my first attempt I hung on the rope, having missed a key hold. There is a small but positive crimp high on what at first appears to be a really bad sloper. It is impossible to see this crimp from below, but there is a large tick mark pointing it out. I needed to reach higher to hit the crimp than I tried on my first attempt. On my second attempt, I sent the first crux cleanly but fell at the second one. Here, the holds are again small and crimpy, but the move is completely doable as long as I get my feet high enough before cranking on the crimps. I forget to high step with my left foot the first time and fell.

April Eldorado Canyon with Dave

 

Kenton and Dave celebrate at the top of the Naked Edge

On Friday April 7, 2023 I flew to Denver to climb with Dave. It was an early morning flight which landed me at 8 AM, so we still had the full day to climb. For Friday we chose to climb The Yellow Spur (5.9+). I had been thinking I had never climbed this before, but Derek reminded me later that I climbed it with him a few years ago. We did the standard start on the right, which is now missing a key hold and has therefore turned into a bit of a highball boulder problem. Pitch 5 felt very difficult to me - above the last bolt I was climbing what felt like hard 5.10 before I began to traverse left on chossy rock up the arete. Dave finished the last pitch which was completely run-out for us.

The next day we got me back on The Naked Edge (5.11b). Although I still didn't climb it cleanly this time, Dave at least got us to the top, so I could experience the entire climb. We did Touch 'N' Go (5.9-) to start, with Dave leading pitch one and me on pitch two. P1 was fun all by itself. P2 was tricky exiting the cave.

I led P1 of The Edge. I fell three times or so, so this wasn't my best performance, having just climbed this pitch cleanly a year or so ago. Maybe I need to use the left side of the arete more at the crux move. Also it might be helpful to have a more sporty shoe for these small finger cracks - the TC Pros just can't fit in small cracks and also don't lock down on small edges quite as well.... Dave pointed out that I also made the start harder than it needed to be. Finally, I need to remember to finger jam by weighting my fingers downward rather than applying sideways pressure. 

Dave led P2; this one felt tricky coming around the wall from right to left and then especially above that in the final stretch. 

I led the P3. No way is it 5.8. The transition around the arete from left to right was totally insecure and poorly protected: there are no feet, and a fall would lead to a big swing back left. I belayed in the valley/alcove on some static lines wrapped around a large horn and with a cam as a backup.

Dave led P4. Stemming and very small finger jams. A high right foot allows you to work your way up into the chimney. There is a fixed nut above your head when leaning out from the chimney. To escape the chimney, reach out right and find some slopey but positive holds and work your feet out right. 

Dave also led P5. The move at the start wasn't too bad: you finger jam the left hand and traverse far right to some jugs. Carefully work your way up and over a small ledge, then you end up in an overhanging hand and fist crack. This crack destroyed me. I probably fell five times here before I managed to work my way through what I felt was the crux. It was difficult to do straight-in hand jam technique, because the feet really weren't there for this. Instead after moving up a short ways I turned it into a lieback with feet smearing on the left wall. This was a major grunt fest. 

I finished us up the slab to the very top. We could have escaped to the right earlier but ended up going all the way to the peak of this formation. Then we downclimbed a bit to skier's left to the East Slabs descent. We kinda fumbled the slabs descent. We didn't go to skier's left early enough and ended up sliding and rappelling down some fixed lines that were in place for some SAR training. Next time I'd like to get better beta for this descent or to have it dialed in.

On Sunday we went sport climbing on the backside of The Slab in the The Flatirons. I did five routes with Dave but only led the first and last myself.

Hippopotamus (5.11a) - Steep and sequency. Fingers got cold on the rock.

Sick For Sleeping (5.11b/c) - Was thin holds and jugs interspersed, the key jugs at the top were all wet.

Shalohsh (5.12-) - Not too bad until the last five moves or so, then it really kicks it up a notch. After moving onto the big underling, match on the rail up and right, get a high left foot, then reach up and left onto the other wall to find two small holds to finish off with.

Film Noir (5.12c) - Couldn't do the crux, I was just too short. I pulled on a draw to move through this face. The rest of the climb was crimpy and fun. I missed a big jug rail out left near the top and fell here too.

Prime the Pump P1 (5.11c) - Juggy and relatively easy, but I was tired by now and wasted a lot of energy fixing a back-clip on the 2nd draw above the ledge. So, I slipped after pumping out and fell near this draw, scraping my ankle on the ledge below. I finished easily after that. Dave climbed both this pitch and the second pitch above in one long pitch.

March Puerto Rico Nuevo Bayamon with Malcolm

 

Crazy wax-like limestone features at Nuevo Bayamon

Wednesday March 8, 2023

Climbing at Nuevo Bayamon in Puerto Rico with Malcolm over spring break. Weather was warm, but the entire climbing area was shaded behind the wall itself at this time of year. And, we were surrounded by dense vegetation, so the temperatures were actually rather pleasant.

The rock is limestone. All the climbs were sport.

Paz (5.8-) - Easy warmup.

Amor (5.8) - Another short and easy warmup. Malcolm led this himself, too!

La Cueva del Alacrán (5.8) - Slight crux in the middle. Malcolm top-roped this once, then led it himself, too.

Jadihel (5.9) - Longer than the others but bottom half was trivial. Another strong lead for Malcolm.

Yan Gabriel (5.9-) - Crux near the top actually felt like 5.9.

ADD (5.10b) - Cruxy and hard on the fingers in the second half. I had to climb this twice, because Malcolm pulled the rope by mistake without intending to lead it.

The Shark Attack (5.10c/d) - Overhung and sharp, but over quickly.

I'm Only Human (5.11a) - Challenged me more than I expected.

Shanghai Bombay (5.12a) - Hard near the bottom, hard near the top, easier on the middle. Go left at the top until the last chance to escape right toward the chains. I had to take twice just below the chains on this one before I figured out the beta.

La Venganza del Planeta (5.9) - Harder than I expected near the bottom and at the overhang.

March Woodcock Cove with Malcolm

March 4, 2023

After a rainy Friday, Malcolm and I drove up early Saturday morning to Woodcock Cove to try to get in some sport climbing before spring break. Woodcock is truly a winter climbing destination - it was getting sun all day, and although the temps had started in the mid-40's, even I was too hot after a few hours wearing only a long-sleeve t-shirt. The drive is a bit farther than other nearby-Chattanooga destinations, but not so much that it's not worth it. Our biggest challenge in the morning was finding some moderate climbs that weren't too wet to climb. Luckily, we did find some to start out on, and the others quickly dried out in the perfect morning sunshine.

Malcolm standing in front of the waterfall between the two main areas at Woodcock Cove

Regret (5.9+) - This climb has a bouldery start but gets easier up top. The area right beneath the chains was dripping when we climbed it, but the good holds are out left, so this didn't matter.

Reach (5.10) - Tough long moves at the bottom, an especially tricky section around a two-finger pocket in the middle, the much easier at the top.

Man with the Hammer (5.10-) - Tricky getting off the ground, but the rest of the climb was quite easy and this short climb was over rather quickly.

The Lizard of Oz (5.9) - A very chill saunter compared with the previous wall. Slightly cruxy slab section near the top.

Pup Friction (5.7) - Malcolm's lead, and he hung the draws himself! Very casual.

Anonymouse (5.10+) - I felt as if this could have been a trad climb instead of sport. Also, it was lots of fun, but it felt more like 5.10- to me. It would be worthwhile returning to this climb and trying it on trad gear.

February T-Wall with Daniel

 February 18, 2023

Met up with Daniel for the first time to climb at T-Wall. We carpooled from the Walmart parking lot. Weather was ideal, with clear skies and highs in the mid-50's.

People's Express (5.10a/b) - Daniel's lead. Crux was down low at the mini roof. He used a #5 to protect it, then mantled out right. Another possibility would have been to stay left using the face holds/pocket. The middle of the climb was also tricky/balancy.

Open Sesame (5.9-) - My lead. Exciting below and getting out of the smaller second cave. Also exciting traversing under roof at the top. This climb felt Full value for the grade.

Stepping Stone (5.10a/b) - Daniel's lead. This one has a hard sequence at the bottom with thin protection, but it doesn't really let up tremendously even after this low crux.

Hungry for Heaven (5.10+) - My lead. I fell at the crux right above the dish. This climb felt harder than I expected and was exciting the whole way. I have to admit I was disappointed not to make a clean send, as I have climbed this clean once before.

Stone Wave (5.11a) - Dan's lead. Stick clip a nut into the crack down low. Then pull up the rack once you are established near the nut. Move at the start is hard V3. Put feet far out left and high, pull up, reach for a small knob up and left, then push off/mantle with the right hand. The finger section two thirds of the way up is really tenuous, too. It would be great to make this a project.

Finger Lockin' Good (5.10b/c) - My lead, and it spat me off. This was a real fall fest for me - I took a big whipper above my second cam placement (black alien) and almost hit the deck. So glad Daniel is such a good belayer! I was clearly tired from all the other climbing we had done earlier, and after the fifth piece of pro I just gave up and came down. This was especially disappointing as I have climbed this one clean in the past after projecting it. It would be great to set up a toprope on this climb and just do laps to practice finger crack techniques.

January T-Wall with Zach

 January 15, 2023

Beautiful weather, lows in the 30's in the parking lot, highs in the upper 50's. Was wearing long sleeves and a fleece the whole day but felt perfect.

Climbed with Zach.

Kenton just approaching the crux of Blood on the Rocks

Prerequisite for Excellence (5.8) -  Zach's lead. Fun. Dripping crack in places. Warming up in the sun.

March Hare (5.10a) - My lead. Stiff bottom, easy after the roof. Fun. Interesting movement through the bottom corner and roof.

Sugar in the Raw (5.11-) - Zach's lead. Stiff bottom, easy after the roof. Fun. Interesting movement through the bottom corner and roof.

Centerfold (5.10) - My lead. Just kinda on you the whole way. So much fun! Crack climbing all the way in a corner to the roof, then hand jams and liebacks through the roof to very easy face climbing over the roof. Maybe my favorite climb at T-Wall. 

Stepping Stone (5.10a/b) - Zach's lead. Thin arete. Tricky pro down low (but Zach led it, not me!). Thin start. Balancy, but it's all there.

Blood on the Rocks (5.10+) - My lead. Super techie finger crack and corner down low. Had to hang on a black totem halfway up at the crux. Made it through the crux by reaching high for a painful pinkie finger jam and smearing my feet up. Super burly getting over the roof using jugs on the left side.

January Denny Cove with Cammie

January 8, 2023. Had intended to climb at T-Wall with Cammie, but it started to rain as we drove toward Chattanooga. There was a band of storms that never came far enough south to impact Atlanta but which completely drenched Tennessee. So we made a last minute decision to climb at Buffet Wall at Denny Cove instead. I was glad I had brought along extra jackets, having at first believed that I would be climbing in the sun and potentially stripping down to a t-shirt. It rained the entire time we were at the Buffet Wall, but the wall itself was mostly dry. Unfortunately, the 5.11's were not dry, especially near the top, only the 5.12's stayed dry, so it was tough to start out gradually!

Squeeze Daddy (5.11), or was it Moral High Ground (5.12a) ? - first climb to the right of Donald Pump - Hung at first fixed draw because I tried to move right instead of left. Lowered off last draw (fixed) before anchors because the route was a stream of water above. My fingers were going numb constantly.

Pressure Cooker (5.12a) - My second and third times on this route. Had to hang many times at the crux. Finally made the move but couldn't do the clip. Came down and got a long draw. Went back up for another attempt and only made it through the crux by pulling on the draw. One more hang above that led me to the top. I can do this clean in better conditions.

Overall conditions were not optimal. Our fingers were going numb, and at one point we were in a fog cloud.