Boulder Canyon and Eldorado Canyon September 2026

Friday, September 25, 2026

Climbed with a bunch of Access Fund folks in Boulder to celebrate the organization's 35th anniversary. We climbed at The Riviera area in Boulder Canyon.

Sea Breeze (5.11a) - very slabby and balancy, I hung on the rope one time near the bottom and fell on my first attempt at the crux two thirds of the way up. 

Lease Agreement (5.10a) - fun fingercrack leads to much easier climbing above on this short route.

Saturday, September 26, 2026

I climbed The Naked Edge with Kishen again today. Always a good time. We were baking in the sun the whole way. We had to wait 45 minutes for the party ahead of us on the fourth pitch, so I didn't end up leading it or the fifth pitch (my original goals) for lack of time. Still, I climbed every pitch except the last clean on top rope. I did fall on the crux of P5. 

A few comments for my future self:

• Keep your head through the first pitch. All the feet are there even if they're really small. If it gets really blank, lay back for one or two move, and you'll get to a better stance. 
• On pitch two all the key holds are there, you just need to look around and traverse a bit here and there. The key piece around the arete is a number 1 cam; a bit above that it is possible to slot a micro nut.
• Pitch three is not hard, but you can perhaps make it easier at the mantle section by smearing on feet out to the right and finding a rail up high and right.
• For pitch four, work your way up carefully, try to get your feet as high as possible near the chimney, and get into chimney position as early as possible. Remember to clip the fixed nut at the top of the chimney long, then reach high and right over the block to a hold where you can match hands while traversing over to the anchor. 
• On pitch five, move out right off the belay, then back left. After moving right again around the corner, get your feet as high as possible to avoid fist jams and try to get hand jams instead. The goal is to work as high as possible on these hand jams and then to get into lay back position as soon as possible.