Sunday, June 16, 2019

June 2019 Sunset Park

I went with Will to Sunset on June 16, 2019. We left the house at 7:30 AM and were in the parking lot (with a bit of traffic) at 9:30 AM. We were on our first climb about a half an hour after that. We climbed until 4 PM, so six hours overall, and we managed to do five climbs (one of which I repeated). Not a bad pace and day! If we could get ourselves to leave earlier in the morning, we could get more climbs in or, more likely, we could do the same number of climbs earlier in the day before it got so hot.

1. S'More (5.8+) - a fun warm-up
2. Alpha Omega (5.10b) - We toproped this. A solid crack climb with a squeeze/chimney section halfway up. This definitely was a challenge.
3. Friday the 13th (5.9) - Fun, but a bit of a two-move wonder. Felt like 5.9-. Still, it was shaded, and nobody else was trying to climb on this section of the wall.
4. Sense of Adventure (5.9+) - There were two cruxes on this climb. The first was an undercling to get over a bulge. The second involved a really high step to get up onto a face.
5. Bubble Bath (5.9) - Another really fun climb. The roof felt like gym climbing.

Monday, June 3, 2019

June Colorado Climbing

Kenton at the top of the descent from Melvin's Wheel


June 1 climbed at South Platte Buffalo Creek area with Derek. We climbed Vegomatic (5.8) and Central Corner (5.10a). The second pitch of Vegomatic was tougher than expected with an offwidth/squeeze chimney section that Derek led. Central Corner was fun and heady getting over the final roof. I didn't manage to do it without hanging twice on gear. Lesson learned: if I'm nervous, I should place some gear that I really trust as high as possible and just go for the move.

June 2 we climbed at Lumpy Ridge Bookmark area. We climbed Melvin's Wheel (5.8) and Twiggy's Crack (5.8+). Melvin's was tons of fun. Definitely a challenging second pitch (which Derek led). Third pitch felt run out to me even though the climbing was very easy. We really ran up Twiggy's because we were worried about approaching thunderstorms.

Kenton at the top of Melvin's Wheel first pitch