August Sunset Rock with Daniel

August 27, 2023

Sunset Rock with Daniel

Stan's Crack (5.8+) - warmup

Cornerstone (5.11-) - Daniel's lead. He needed to retrieve a stuck nut placed the previous week. I fell halfway up the arete, then found a key finger lock and did the climb without incident from there.

Jefferson Airplane (5.10a) - my lead. I barndoored off right after placing my second piece, because I wasn't paying close attention. Lowered to the ground, then sent it clean to the top. While up there I rigged the anchor over Mineral Fright instead of Jefferson Airplane.

Mineral Fright (5.11a) - Daniel and I both top-roped this climb. Fun climbing on tiny crimps. It would be a dangerous lead.

Another Fallen Angel (5.10) - Daniel led this and made it look easy. I have always hestiated to climb this when I've been at Sunset in the past. But, Daniel made it look so easy this time that we pulled the rope and I set off trying to lead it myself. He had placed two pieces before getting to the perfect hand crack beneath the roof. While there, he had placed two additional cams and extended them both. Then he had gone over the roof and pushed to the top. When I tried to do this I was initially shut down at the roof. First I just plain hung on the rope. The next time I managed to get my hand on the jug over the lip, but I traversed right (the wrong way), couldn't get myself over the lip and ended up taking a fall. Finally the next time I made it. The sequence was:

1. Hands in the jam under the roof

2. High right heel hook on the same rail as the hands

3. Reach way way out and up and right for a jug at the edge of the lip/roof

4. Put both feet in the hand crack

5. Pull hard up and go for the rail way above your head and to the left

6. Move farther left with matched hands on the rail

7. High right foot. Trust it!

8. Right hand to the crimp in the small crack above the roof on the right

9. Pull the roof and go

July Eldo with Brady and Derek

 Flew to Denver on July 28 and spent two nights with Derek and Sarah. I was suffering from a cold the whole weekend which cast a shadow over things. My energy level was low.

On Saturday July 29 I climbed with Brady. We climbed in Eldo in the morning and at Easter Rock in Boulder Canyon that afternoon.

Brady led Werks Up (5.9) to the base of Outer Space (5.10b/c). I led both pitches of Outer Space. I found the climb very fun, not really scary, and pretty well protected. On the first pitch, after traversing to the right, go under the bulge and then up instead of up and over the bulge. On the second pitch, place a #2 (extend with double-length sling) up and right off of the belay in the mini roof, then traverse left to the piton. Clip the piton, back it up with another cam, and move left around the arete.

On the way down we climbed Sunset Boulevard (5.11b). I was unable to get through the crux without pulling on gear. Brady was able to do the move cleanly.

At Easter Rock we climbed:

a hard 5.11 (don't know the name)

Empire of the Fenceless (5.12a) - I had to hang on the draws at the crux. Here, I need to get my right foot up in a smear, then get my left foot as high as possible on an edge before reaching way up for the next decent hold high over my head.

On Sunday July 30 I climbed with Derek in Eldo at Peanuts Walls:

Peanuts (5.9+) - Derek led this and struggled with some terrific rope drag. There is a definite crux in the middle! We rapped after the first pitches rather than trying the hard 5.11 mixed routes above.

Trouble and Strife (5.10b/c) - I had to aid through the crux in the bottom section; it felt hard to me for the grade. Derek told me he after doing it on toprope that he thinks he knows the beta now.

West Crack (aka Star Wars) (5.8) - Derek led this. I thought it was one of the most spectacular 5.8's I've ever done. Derek hated it, because he said that it was just a bit too small for him to ever sink his hands into very well. So he found it very challenging and pumpy.

Heavy Weather - We did this in two pitches. I led the first (5.9), Derek the second (5.8). My section had two corner finger cracks. These were very thought-provoking but entirely doable. I was very happy to have smaller wires on my rack. Derek's section was a wider hand/first crack, and he liked this size much better than Star Wars.