May 22 Sunset Rock with John and Rachel

 John and Rachel came with me to Sunset with Beck in tow on May 22, 2021.

Stan's Crack (5.8+) - our warmup. I chose the direct finish which seemed more straightforward than moving out right near the top.

Rusty's Crack (5.10a/b) - I finally did the crux move clean (after a single take). Bring at least two and maybe three #4 cams. You don't need to bring doubles of anything else especially if you back-clean anything you place in the chimney. In the chimney, you can place a high #2 - be sure you have it on the correct side of your harness. Each time you've climbed the chimney, you've done so facing to the right, but several folks climb it facing to the left and claim this is easier. Protect the crux roof move with a #4 as high as you can reach from under the roof, and also place a smaller cam (0.5?) in the horizontal finger crack below as a backup. To pull the crux move:

    1. Right hand on the low corner arete horn

    2. Left hand on the crimp up in front of your face or a bit higher

    3. Left foot up on something before you try to make the move, probably want to use the rail that is 6-12 inches below on the underside of the roof to push off with your left foot.

    4. Pull hard and lift your right foot up onto the slopey foothold on the roof edge/arete.

    5. Look for a face hold for the right hand? (maybe this doesn't exist, can't remember)

    6. Right hand thumb down in the crack, there is a flake you want to gaston high on the inside right face of the crack.

    7. Find small but good face hold right in front of you for the next gear stance.

Then place a second #4 cam and walk it as you make your way up the fist crack.

Broken Arrow (5.10a) - I forgot how hard the lower section is. Also, I went left at the top instead of right as I have done before. I was trying to follow the topo as indicated in Chattrad, but I don't believe that topo is correct. I ended up in a lichen-covered section that ended at a tree with old tat rap anchors and no bolts. I think this climb is supposed to end up and to the right under the roof. I set up a gear anchor to back up the tree, had Rachel toprope on that, then climbed it again and rapped off the sketchy tree. Ugh.

May 20 Sunset Rock with Kellett

Climbed at Sunset with Kellett on May 20, 2021.

Lefthand Crack (5.9+) - I thought I was getting on Righthand Crack, but it turns out I was getting on the harder "Lefthand" Crack. It was fun, a solid hand crack.

Spud Boys (5.10, p. 108 in Chattrad) - Had a fun start with a mini-roof, but the top was boring and covered in lichen and finished in the trees without anchors. This climb isn't even on Mountain Project.

Rusty's Crack (5.10a/b) - I fell on top of Kellett just above the hard move at the roof. After that I aided through the section by pulling on two #4 cams. See post from May 22, 2021 for full beta.

S'more (5.8+) - Fun, and a good deal harder than I remembered.

Flagstone (5.11a) - Done on toprope. I fell several times getting around the roof, but managed to get through it eventually with an "aggressive" belay. This would be an exciting lead, to say the least.