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| Kenton working the boulder problem at the start of Stone Wave. Note the high left foot, the right hand palm down, and the left hand pulling on a vertical edge/side pull. |
April 13, 2025
First time out climbing with Wes, getting to know each other.
Wes is strong!!!
In Pursuit of Excellence (5.9+) - Wes's lead for our warm-up. Wet near the top. He traversed left sooner than I usually do, avoiding getting crouched up under the roof.
The Heaven of Animals (5.10+) - Crux comes pulling the roof and the first few moves right afterwards. In the vertical finger crack 2/3 of the way up, put lots of gear for courage. Equalize two pieces under the roof (I placed a blue and black Totem with a magic X), reach up to above the roof, use holds to make it to a shallow but useable rail directly overhead. Match hands on this rail, then get left foot up on edge right above the roof, and crank hard. Move to the seam way up and left. From here there is no more pro, but the climbing is easier on thin edges to the top.
Stone Wave (5.11a/b) - Refer here for my original beta on this climb. Now I revise it slightly (also see photo above). For the crux off the ground: put hands on slopey rails, place left foot high onto slopey edge out left, crank as hard as possible. Use left side pull (really just a flat edge directly overhead) with left hand to enable you to hold your weight long enough to turn your right palm upside down. Push hard on this palm-down hand and get the right foot up, then grab the triangle hold/ear high up and left with the left hand. Then move the left hand far out left to a very positive edge and stand up completely. For the crux at the stone wave itself, the best foot is right under the lip just next to the crack on the right hand side. Using fingers above the crack, stand on this with the right foot, then move the fingers higher in crack above (I actually put the two hands almost on top of each other with stacked finger jams), and stand up, then move fingers even higher, and get the left foot as high in crack as possible, putting the sole of this foot on the right side of the crack with the knee dropped outward to the left to stand up.
Centerfold (5.10) - Truly one of my favorite climbs at T-Wall, and always shaded. Good gear the whole way. Jugs the whole way. Just keep moving at the roof! Lots of fun.
