December 14, 2024. T-Wall.
Puppy Ride (5.9) - (Daniel's lead). Bouldery/reachy move off the ground. Many beautiful hand and fist jams in the corner after that.
The Heaven of Animals (5.10+) - Did this on top rope after moving the anchor over to the other side of the dihedral. It's a solid finger crack; there's a stiff move over the roof but not too bad if you find the side pull above the roof out to the right.
Hidden Assets (5.10a) - (My lead). Tough start, then easy at the bottom of crack, harder at the top of crack, and easy climbing to the top above the crack.
Margin of Profit (5.9+) - (Daniel's lead). Definitely felt easier on top rope for me than it felt when I led it a few weeks ago. Also, Daniel went farther right near the bottom than I did on lead at the bottom, and I think the protection here was better.
Starting move beta: hands on slopey rails, left foot high onto slopey edge out left, crank as hard as possible and grab the triangle hold high and left with left hand. Turn right hand upside down and palm it down against edges slightly closer to ground out right. Bring right foot up out right? Then move left hand far out left to a very positive edge and stand up.
Above the stone wave: there is a slopey but good foothold for the right foot just at the lip of the wave. Grab the lowest finger lock and finger/hand jam up. Be sure to grab the really positive but sharp finger lock between thumb and index finger instead of just jamming your pinky in there (otherwise your nerves will scream out and hurt for a long time). Get right foot onto foothold out right. Keep moving hands as high as possible. Bring left foot up into crack and press with it against the right wall of crack to provide opposition. From this position you should be able to stand up. Above this move use both the crack and footholds out on the faces outside the crack.
Day's Work (5.10b) - (Daniel's lead). At the start, face straight in, get the right foot as high as possible so that you can jam it in the crack. This feels very awkward but it is possible. Work hands up the crack with this foot located in the very bottom. Eventually find a thin foothold up on left side of chimney. Work higher, find feet on right wall outside chimney or just on the lip of the wall. If necessary you can walk gear in the crack on the way up. When Daniel climbed this he led the original variation but was very surprised and nervous to find a large block far out right in the roof section to be loose. Instead I climbed the direct finish variation above the roof on toprope. This variation wasn't too hard although it may have felt a bit run out on lead.
No comments:
Post a Comment