March Puerto Rico Nuevo Bayamon with Malcolm

 

Crazy wax-like limestone features at Nuevo Bayamon

Wednesday March 8, 2023

Climbing at Nuevo Bayamon in Puerto Rico with Malcolm over spring break. Weather was warm, but the entire climbing area was shaded behind the wall itself at this time of year. And, we were surrounded by dense vegetation, so the temperatures were actually rather pleasant.

The rock is limestone. All the climbs were sport.

Paz (5.8-) - Easy warmup.

Amor (5.8) - Another short and easy warmup. Malcolm led this himself, too!

La Cueva del Alacrán (5.8) - Slight crux in the middle. Malcolm top-roped this once, then led it himself, too.

Jadihel (5.9) - Longer than the others but bottom half was trivial. Another strong lead for Malcolm.

Yan Gabriel (5.9-) - Crux near the top actually felt like 5.9.

ADD (5.10b) - Cruxy and hard on the fingers in the second half. I had to climb this twice, because Malcolm pulled the rope by mistake without intending to lead it.

The Shark Attack (5.10c/d) - Overhung and sharp, but over quickly.

I'm Only Human (5.11a) - Challenged me more than I expected.

Shanghai Bombay (5.12a) - Hard near the bottom, hard near the top, easier on the middle. Go left at the top until the last chance to escape right toward the chains. I had to take twice just below the chains on this one before I figured out the beta.

La Venganza del Planeta (5.9) - Harder than I expected near the bottom and at the overhang.

March Woodcock Cove with Malcolm

March 4, 2023

After a rainy Friday, Malcolm and I drove up early Saturday morning to Woodcock Cove to try to get in some sport climbing before spring break. Woodcock is truly a winter climbing destination - it was getting sun all day, and although the temps had started in the mid-40's, even I was too hot after a few hours wearing only a long-sleeve t-shirt. The drive is a bit farther than other nearby-Chattanooga destinations, but not so much that it's not worth it. Our biggest challenge in the morning was finding some moderate climbs that weren't too wet to climb. Luckily, we did find some to start out on, and the others quickly dried out in the perfect morning sunshine.

Malcolm standing in front of the waterfall between the two main areas at Woodcock Cove

Regret (5.9+) - This climb has a bouldery start but gets easier up top. The area right beneath the chains was dripping when we climbed it, but the good holds are out left, so this didn't matter.

Reach (5.10) - Tough long moves at the bottom, an especially tricky section around a two-finger pocket in the middle, the much easier at the top.

Man with the Hammer (5.10-) - Tricky getting off the ground, but the rest of the climb was quite easy and this short climb was over rather quickly.

The Lizard of Oz (5.9) - A very chill saunter compared with the previous wall. Slightly cruxy slab section near the top.

Pup Friction (5.7) - Malcolm's lead, and he hung the draws himself! Very casual.

Anonymouse (5.10+) - I felt as if this could have been a trad climb instead of sport. Also, it was lots of fun, but it felt more like 5.10- to me. It would be worthwhile returning to this climb and trying it on trad gear.