August 2021 Eldo and RMNP with Derek and Nick

August 6, 2021

Showed up in the Eldo parking lot around 6 AM. Derek and I climbed Touch 'N' Go (5.9-) as an approach to The Naked Edge (5.11b). I don't remember much about this climb. We then meandered up the Meadow to the start of The Naked Edge.

I led all of the pitches of The Edge, at least those that we were able to complete. The first pitch was a hard (for me) finger crack, but I managed to do it clean. The second and third pitches were not easy, but they weren't super challenging, either (although they were a bit run out in places). There was a bit of a thoughtful move a third of the way up the second pitch. Traversing right and doing the mantle move on the third pitch also felt a bit challenging. I belayed from two slings/static loops wrapped around a rock at the top - I was unsure if it would make more sense to continue over the top of this rock and build a gear belay or stick with what appeared to be a rap station. The fourth pitch I was unable to complete. I climbed it cleanly until I needed to get into the chimney - then I lost my will to continue. After hanging (on the piton and cam below and to the right of the chimney) and making several attempts, we finally gave up. Moving up through this chimney seemed very technical, and you move quite high above the two pieces below. I need to have these moves dialed in to feel comfortable getting that high above my gear. Still, I'm determined to return and give this climb another attempt.

The Spearhead with Syke's Sickle in the center

On Saturday we got up at 3 AM to climb Syke's Sickle (5.9+) in Rocky Mountain National Park. Because of the new permitting system for park visitors, we needed to be inside the park before 5 AM, and we barely made it because of road construction. The approach was, as usual, and endurance fest for me, and I struggled to keep up with the pace that Derek and Nick were setting. Still, I made it to the base, where we started the day of cold, cold temperatures. It was probably above 90 degrees back in Denver, and yet I don't think the temperature ever cracked above 42 degrees (and windy) while we were on the climb. I was shivering at the belays. Derek led the easy first pitch. The second pitch was super run-out slab, and I can't say I was too happy about that. I believe it was on pitch 4 as described on Mountain Project that, while Derek was leading, he fell. The rope began to slip through my fingers, and it took me a second or two to realize what had happened. By the time I arrested his fall, he was 20-40 feet below the piece he had just placed. I'm still not entirely sure what happened here, but I think it was a combination of not stopping the rope in time and having a tremendous amount of rope out (it was a very long pitch or a link-up he was doing) which led to a lot of rope stretch.  Luckily, he continued up the climb with nothing worse than a very bruised ankle, but he did complain about it feeling numb, and he did say he didn't want to lead any more pitches. OK - I felt bad enough that he had fallen so far, and I was more than happy to lead the rest of the pitches for us.

Pitch 5 was fun once I figured out I needed to move really high in the crack/chimney before traversing out to the right. I think I ended up placing a piece high to protect this traverse before moving back down a bit lower to make the crux moves. On pitch 6, the crux pitch, I fell while trying to make the final moves out around the roof. It protects really well with a #4, however, and I almost felt like it was a "sport" pitch from the perspective of protection, so never was really nervous. Regaining my composure, I found a huge hold/edge at the top of the roof - if only I had been able to hold on a bit longer and reach a bit higher, I would have done this cleanly. From here I climbed a ways up the crack/ramp and set up a belay.

Pitch 7 may in some ways have been the spiciest pitch of all. Derek did manage to spot the lone bolt for me (yay!), and I slotted a piece in the flake directly above the belay. But overall there wasn't a lot of protection on this pitch, and a fall would be exciting and/or dangerous both for the leader as well as for the follower. Very delicate slab moves led to easier climbing to the top.

The descent was relatively casual, although it still felt long. By now I was feeling the altitude to a very large degree, I was very tired, and all my muscles were starting to cramp up. I was super happy when we trudged back into the parking lot and I could finally relax. That night, I experienced leg cramps unlike any I've ever experienced before (both legs cramping in various places at the same time), and even trying to walk them off didn't help at times. I think I need more water and more electrolytes next time. I also need more warm clothes - I was cold even with a long-sleeve synthetic shirt, a short-sleeve synthetic shirt, a puffy, and a gortex shell. Perhaps I even need a pullover next time.

Also of note was the smoke from fires out west. There was so much smoke that we basically couldn't see the sun for most of the day even though it was directly over our heads. This kept us cold, and it also made breathing at altitude that much more difficult. I do hope the air clears up there soon.

Nick expresses his excitement

Tired but satisfied at the top of Syke's Sickle