Thursday, April 28, 2016

Spring sport climbing at Foster Falls


On Saturday, April 23, I joined Kellett, Kelley, and Nick for a trip up to Foster Falls. We left the house around 8 AM, driving up in my Subaru, and were probably on the rocks by 11. Quinn met us in the parking lot to round out our group. The weather was gorgeous, with clear skies and a high just over 70 F. Here's the team during the hike down into the canyon:
Kellett, Kelley, Nick, and Quinn on the hike down to Foster Falls
I warmed up on Narcissim (5.10b), with an awkward crux at the top which made it feel rather hard for the grade... Kellett showed off her flexibility near the start:
Kellett shows us how to stretch at the start of Narcissim
All of us noticed that there were little red mites covering the rocks, and we were nervous that they might be chiggers:
A potential chigger? (taken with phone at maximum zoom!)
It turns out these were probably harmless clover mites, but we didn't know that at the time! Having experienced a nasty run-in with chiggers during a clay pigeons trip last year, I had no interest in running into them again while climbing.

The scene became rather crowded as the day wore on, a real contrast with the peaceful sense of real wilderness I've experienced during my past few trips to Lost Wall. Conversation was non-stop. I guess that's to be expected with a sport climbing destination so close to metropolitan Chattanooga, but I was still disappointed. Here's a photo of the crowd at one point:
Foster Falls sure is popular!
I was also starting to realize that I really do prefer trad climbing to sport. I've probably been sport climbing only three times since moving to Atlanta five years ago. It can be fun, but trad climbing really gets my adrenaline pumping, heart thumping, and breathing going in a different way!

Despite the beautiful weather, we all got hot when we spent time baking in the sun near the tops of the climbs. Just goes to show that, near Chattanooga at least, late fall to early spring really is the prime climbing season.

Next up was Atrophy (5.11b/c), which didn't feel much harder than Narcissim. I was beginning to wonder if I could trust the grades in this area. Atrophy starts to the right of the main climb, then moves up and traverses left above a roof before continuing straight up. The direct start via the roof goes at 5.12a. Here I am beginning the short traverse above the roof:
Beginning the traverse at the start of Atrophy
Next up was Story of My Life (5.11b), which felt rather pumpy at the top - a really solid workout.
Kellett at the start of Story of My Life


Kenton halfway up Story of My Life
Then came Supersaturated (5.10c), with its tricky bouldery start, thin crack, and positive holds at the top. Definitely solid at the grade.

After finishing up Finger Puppets (5.11a), a route that combined balance-y face climbing and a huge roof (with even huger holds) my rght big toe really started to hurt! I think these new shoes were just applying too much pressure (or am I just getting old?). This roof was really fun. The roof looked daunting, but the holds over its lip were so massive that it felt easy!

My final climb of the day was Hola Bitch (5.10a?). This trickster felt like 5.9 until the very end, where the slopey direct finish seemed more like 5.12a. We all skipped that, (was it the real end of the route, or not?) and traversed right for a much easier finish up a left-facing corner.

I managed to scarf down three tacos at Taco Mamacita that night, before we grabbed a quick coffee at nearby Milk and Honey, before driving back to Atlanta. Overall, a very successful day outside!


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