Sunday, July 7, 2024

July 2024 Sunset Rock with Noel

Left the house at 4:40 AM for an early arrival at the upper lot for Sunset Rock.

Wind Walker (5.9) - Delicate moves through the start. Big holds at the roof, then a high right foot. Slab climbing above the roof. Noel really struggled with rope drag because he didn't extend his leftmost piece below the roof far enough. You should use not just a single shoulder-length runner but two of them.

Liberty Bell (5.9) - I got the hard boulder problem at the start cleanly, in contrast with the many other times I've tried this climb, but I also got flash pumped too. Above this I tried the Windmill finish to the left but gave up when I realized it was thin and run out. Then I struggled with pump all the way to the top through the beautiful hand crack.

Walk in The Park (5.8) - Noel led this. Flake, corner, roof, off-width. I used two fist jams in the high crack.

Train Time (5.10a) - A bit harder than expected at the beginning. Many of the crimps I kept reaching for were actually flattened or rounded on top, or maybe the top edges had broken off, which turned them into pinchy crimps instead. This climb had fun movement with thin protection through the arching corner halfway up. From the top of the arch it was easy climbing to the anchor.

Pigs in Space (5.10) - Noel led the first pitch of this one. It climbs up through a series of bulges, then into a large left facing corner. Above the corner you move up to a ledge and traverse right to build a belay. This is the end of the first pitch. From the belay I traversed back left and tried to send a tricky finger crack. I struggled at the crux because I couldn't find any good constrictions, and I ended up hanging on a 0.4 Totem three times before pushing through to the top, using some thin edges on the face rather than pure finger-crack technique. We rappelled to the bottom. I would be great to come back and get this done cleanly.

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