May Tennessee Wall with Noel

 

Noel getting ready to send

May 19, 2024

Prerequisite for Excellence (5.8) - Noel's lead. Nice warmup. Remember to go right at the top not left.

Love Handle (5.10b) - Hesitated at the face crux, but it was easy when I did a sequence of smaller moves working my feet up instead of trying to do just two or three bigger moves. Hesitated again at the roof but did it easily after cranking on a small edge with my right hand to be able to reach up to the crack jug above with my left.

Shiva's Last Dance (5.9-) - Low angle corner at the start, cruxy bulge down low, run-out face, chill roof, ladder to the top.

Reptile Analysis (5.10b) - On the right face under big roof, the cracks/weakness side pulls for your left hand are better than you expect in places. Don't just pick one at random. For the roof itself, place a #3 in the slot out right near the lip. Then, rather than traversing across with your hands right under the roof, instead stay on the rail/edge out right about two feet under the roof, smearing with your feet. Crank up, and move your feet over onto the arete proper so you can stand up again. Do a few moves with your hands in the crack above the roof, and place another #3 in this hand crack. Work your hands and fingers up in this crack and step up with the left edge of your left foot onto a small edge over the roof. The climbing eases up after this. Near the top go left into the chimney if you want to place some protection, but you don't need to stay in the chimney. You can move out onto the left face or onto the large flake on the right of the chimney to make your way to the top. Anchors are on the left face.