October Looking Glass

John descends from the top of Sundial Crack

Oct 27-28

Trip to Looking Glass North Carolina with John Simpson. Raining while we drove up on Friday night, and continued raining while we camped throughout the night, so rocks were wet Saturday morning. We climbed on the North Face where it is overhung enough that several of the routes were still dry enough to climb.We climbed the first pitch of Creatures of Waste (5.10c), the first half of Waverly Waster traversing left to finish on the same first pitch of Creatures of Waste, and then we finished on the first pitch of The Seal (5.10-). I particularly enjoyed The Seal, which I managed to lead on sight. This was due in no small part to a local who shouted encouraging beta during the cruxy roof traverse section near the top.

John starting his way up the first pitch of Sundial Crack

The next day it was finally dry enough for some face climbing. We started late in the morning and only managed to climb the 4-pitch Sundial Crack (5.8-). Despite the easy grade, I found this climb rather challenging in a few sections simply because its slabby style felt so foreign to me.  I led the 2nd and (final) 4th pitches, and nearly ran out of rope at the top. I was pulling as hard as I could to stretch the rope the last few feet I needed to reach the bolted anchors.

John halfway up the crack which gives Sundial Crack its name